16 August 2015
We seem to spend most of our lives rushing around, never stopping, moving from the next thing to the next thing until the holiday finally arrives and we have the time to pause and look around. Some of us look for something new and the lucky few find the ocean. The ocean reminds us of just how small we are and helps us to put things into proper perspective. Surfing can be likened to meditation. The ritual of checking conditions, choosing a location, packing equipment and finally entering the water makes us take the time to consider nothing more than the moment we are in. Surfing is about more than just catching waves, its about taking time to clear our minds and to grow. It can take us in new directions or steer us back on course when we have lost our way. Sometimes its easy to forget to pause, but in the modern World it is an act that is becoming ever more necessary.